thefouramigosblog

Every Saturday morning a woman named Deet walks to the farm with tourists straggling behind providing information on the farm and the neighborhood and what it was like when she came here 27 years ago.  She’s a wealth of knowledge and if you stay in Antigua long enough you may get the good fortune of meeting her.   When we arrived, Deet introduced us to Alex, the owner and champion of the Caoba Farms.

Many vendors gather Saturday morning selling their goods.  Today we bought some tomatoes from the young man selling vegetables and some sweet cakes from a woman selling baked goods.

Vendors were selling homemade salsas, coconut oils, soaps, artwork and jewelry.  Last week we bought some honey and vegetables.

At the vegetable stand, there were several veggies I had never seen before.  Deet picked it up and asked the young man what it was.  It turns out the black veggie was a radish.

Deet took us for a tour of the fields and the leafy greens were amazing.  There were many different varieties of lettuces and kale.  We saw lavender, rosemary and lemon thyme.  The fragrances strong and welcoming.  Everything lush – growing without pesticides.  There were also goats, chickens, hens and quail.  All free range.

 

After the fields we  did some shopping and then it was time to eat.  The food the Guatemalan women were cooking smelled aromatic and I was compelled to try it.  It was delicious.  It was a chicken stew with vegetables, rice and black beans.  To drink, we had rose hip iced tea.  Marvelous.

Barbara had a meal prepared by the farm which was sausage and eggs.  Here we go again talking about the food – but it is such an integral part of life here in Antigua.

To top it all off, we had live music to dine by.  Not music you would expect in Guatemala but more the sounds you’d here in southern states in the USA.

It was a marvelous way to spend a Saturday morning and a great place to buy some great food and some extras.

Siesta time and we had to pass our apartment anyway so we decided to relax for awhile.  Afterwards, we met up with Barbara and went for coffee at Cafe Estudio. Juan Jose made a bear on my cappuccino.

Saturday is a busy day by Central Park.  Vendors are out as well as street performers.  I love walking the streets taking in the myriad of sights and the bustle of the crowd.  A mime worked the crowd with a comedic style.

At the weaver’s market we saw Clara and Ruth.  Clara had a lovely woven top that she showed me.  I know she would have liked me to buy it but I was not in the market for buying today.  Barbara bought a lovely bag from Ruth.  Then we went to another shop where Barbara bought a nice t shirt.  Less food today.

For dinner this evening we stayed close to the apartment.  We went to Casa Blanca which is a small hotel.  We weren’t sure how the food would be because it was ranked only 223 out of 331 restaurants in Antigua.  But it turned out great.  I had chicken fajitas, Bruce had fish and chips and Barbara had a Mediterranean meal.  I think we were all very pleased.

To bed early tonight.  We are getting up with the birds tomorrow to do some bird watching.  A new one for Bruce and I.

 

 

The last time Bruce and I went to the macadamia farm, we saw quite a few birds.  Knowing Barbara loves her birds, I thought it would be a great place to take her.  Besides, the Macadamia pancakes are awesome and Lorenzo the owner of Valhalla is quite a character.   Our favorite cab driver, Hernan, was waiting to take us this morning.  It was a cool, crisp morning with bright blue skies and a steady breeze.  The volcanoes surrounding Antigua looked majestic.

We arrived at the same time a group of 15 showed up so I was concerned that the birding would not be as productive.  However, the pancakes were fabulous and although each order was huge we all finished everything on our plate.

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Barbara did spot a tiny yellow bird that I don’t believe she has seen before.  It put a smile on her face.

We wandered around the farm and Barbara and I had mini facials.  We spent some time talking with Lorenzo but unfortunately we did not see Emelia today.  By the time we left, I was ready to take a nap.  And it was only noon.

An afternoon rest was in order and then out for a little shopping and touring the city.  We met up with Clara and Barbara negotiated a deal.   I also want to see behind every door so I dragged Bruce and Barbara into several hotels.  Of course we needed an afternoon pick me up at Cafe Barista.

We headed home to clean up and then get ready to go out for dinner.  Looking out the window, el Fuego just peaks through the swirling clouds and you can see a faint outline of Acatenango.

For dinner we decided to eat Guatemalan.  We found a wonderful place, Restaurante Fonda de la Calle Real.  Bruce had Pepian with chicken and spices.  Barbara had a free range hen dish with a tomato based sauce and I had grilled chicken and vegetables.  The restaurant was much larger then it appeared to be.  We sat at a lovely table not far from the grill where we could watch the cooking. A woman flattened tortillas with her hands slapping them together rapidly, then placing them on the grill.  The waitresses were dressed in Guatemalan clothing and the waiters wore colorful vests.

On our way home we heard music around the park.  It is the beginning of lent and much happens in Antigua during the next 40 days.  A band was playing, there was an exhibition of religious  posters pertaining to the crucifixion of Jesus, and their were street vendors selling food along the street.  Everyone is celebrating in Antigua.

We went through the gallery and joined in the festivities for a short while and then headed home.  But before reaching home we stopped at San Martin for some baked goods.

Another day of eating our way around Antigua!

I’m not big on fast food and I usually don’t go to McDonalds in the United States, but Antigua’s McDonalds was ranked second fanciest in the world.  It used to hold the first place title until one was built in Chile.  So what was so special?  Well first of all I ordered a cappuccino medium and it was quite large.  Bruce ordered a Frappe which was quite good.  We sat outside with A volcano as a back drop.  Need I say more?

The place was clean, elegant and the it appeared to be frequented by both foreigners and Guatemalans.  There were fountains and statues adorning the inside as well.

The McCafe was separate from where one orders a main meal.  There was a children’s play area as well.

I also need to mention that they had an ordering kiosk which maybe a step above what we have in the US.

Our next stop was The Training Center of The Spanish Cooperation in Antigua.  This was part of the Compania De Jesus ruin on 4th Calle Poniente.

There was an exhibit about the world, the environment, people, etc.  Unfortunately, it was all in Spanish and we could only pick up a few words.  Another good reason to take some Spanish classes while we are here.

This training center housed a library, training rooms, a theater which is showing Charlie Chaplin films this month and a cafe.

We strolled back to the square where I ran into Clara and Ruth, two wonderful women who make beautiful scarves and table runners.

We ate in tonight.  We picked up a loaf of bread at San Martin and had pasta with sauce and an avocado-tomato salad.  It was a great dinner.

 

 

It’s funny but today I was without my camera.  Bruce and I headed to the Scandinavian Gym.  I’m really not sure why it’s called that since I was the only Scandinavian there.  In fact, I think we were the only foreigners in the place.  That being said, it was a good place to workout with a large grouping of fairly new equipment and nice free weights.  We worked out about an hour then headed back home.  I was going to try the spinning class but it wasn’t scheduled when I was there.

Instead of eating out, I made scrambled eggs with scallion, bananas and strawberries, and a half an apple pastry.  Yummy.

I met this lovely woman, Deet, who has been living in Guatemala for 23 years.  She does a number of things and one of them is massage.  It was a very relaxing and much needed massage.  We chatted for awhile after and as usual, I left Bruce waiting.  Luckily he has been married to me so long that he has grown accustomed to this.

For dinner we made pasta and sauce and then went for a walk to the square.  It’s interesting how in two weeks people are starting to know us and call out to us.

We went to Cafe Barrista where Bruce could get his favorite Caramel Macchiato.  I had a cappuccino.  Now we are home getting ready for bed because tomorrow will be a busy day.

This morning we slept in a little late but we were hearing booms from the volcano all night long.  In fact Bruce had a dream we were going to have to evacuate because Fuego was going to erupt.  I think this activity is normal though.  Just not normal for us.

I went to a 90 minute yoga class this morning and Bruce went to the gym.  Then we went to the park to meet up with his good friend Scott, who worked with him at SCANA.

We also met up Martha and Ted,  Scott’s family, who had invited us to Casa Popenoe last week.  Martha also introduced me to Ruth, another Mayan woman who had very lovely scarves and woven cloth that she was selling.

After we made our purchases we headed to a quaint, outdoor cafe  named Saberico.  I passed this place several times and had no idea how far it went out back with tables set up in all these cozy, nooks adorned with fragrant flowers and birds.

Bruce ordered Guatemalan tacos and I ate healthy with a Mediterranean salad with chicken.  My salad was very good.  We enjoyed the camaraderie and I know Bruce was happy to see Scott.

We said our goodbyes after lunch because our next stop was to visit a travel agent to book a vacation within a vacation.  You would think that spending two months in a foreign country would be enough but of course staying put in any spot for me can be a little tiresome.  My mother used to tell me I was her gypsy child because I had such wanderlust from a very young age.

Anyway, we booked a week trip first going to Semuc Champey, which is this place where the pools of water are turquoise and there are caves nearby to explore.  Then on to the Mayan ruins of Tikal for two days and then for a boat ride on the Rio Dulce on the border of Belize.  Those are the three other places we really wanted to see here.

With the deal closed and the dates set, Bruce and I headed to San Martin for cappuccino and cake.

 

It has been another lovely day in Antigua. I’m loving this life!

Yesterday was a restful day.  After a 90 minute yoga class, most of the day was spent walking around or reading in the courtyard.  We ate at the Italian restaurant that was just a block or two away.

I guess we needed the rest because we had an extremely busy day today.  We visited the rental office and peered into a few shops on the way.  By one of the ruins, we saw the floats that they will be using during the upcoming Easter events.  Antigua brings thousands of people from all over the world during lent and Easter.

Several street artists were working on the streets as we walked through the El A de Santa Catalina. We looked in several shops on our way to meet our friends in the park.

 

We met Patty and Chris who introduced us to Clara.  Clara showed me quite a few items and explained the different processes on how to make them.  She explained how to tell if it is machine made or handmade.  When handmaking a runner for a table, it can take up to two months to complete.

 

After a bit of wheeling and dealing, Clara and I made a deal and I walked away with three lovely pieces of Clara’s work.  The table pieces cost approximately $55 and her hand made scarves are about $15.  And they are beautifully made.

Patty, Chris, Bruce and I went for coffee at an off the beaten track cafe – we went through a liquor and electronic store and climbed up two flights of stairs to a lovely restaurant with beautiful views.

On our agenda was to go food shopping after coffee, but we were having such a good time and lunch sounded better.  Lunch always sounds better to me.  In fact it’s been one of my favorite things to do in retirement.  So off we went to the Cafe Sky.

I can’t believe I forgot to photograph our lunch.  Bruce said his tomato soup was the best he ever had.  My black bean soup was thick, robust and delicious.  Patty’s grilled cheese sandwich was chock full of cheese and Chris loved his lentil soup.

Lunch finished we stopped in a tienda or small convenience store for some items we were going to get at the big super market.  With all that effort we then needed a break at Cafe Estudio for an afternoon coffee.

We also checked out a few really nice restaurants along the way.  One was called Elten and the other was Eternal Primavera.  Beautiful to look at and a bit pricey but hopefully the food is good.

On the way home, I saw my little peanut man Emanuel.  He is in front of this hotel every day with his nuts, scale and bags and I usually buy a little something from him every day.  I know he looks for me and we have a little conversation in Spanish.

In the evening we met up with some other friends for coffee and conversation.  It was a very full day in Antigua.

Last Saturday we were late for the market but today we got there to enjoy the hustle and bustle and to buy a few things.  We stopped at the veggie guy and luckily we ran into a friend who could do a little negotiating.  We bought a bag filled with spinach, a green and red cabbage head, avocado, and onion.

Everything looked so fresh fresh and delicious it almost makes me want to cook.  Other vendors were selling sauces, peanut butter, oils, health food drinks, honey, and an assortment of jewelry and cloth products.  We ended up with some coconut oil, a tomato sauce good for bruschetta, and some orange clover honey.

We had planned to eat there but after taste testing so many things, we both felt pretty full.  The food at the restaurant looks pretty amazing though so we plan to go back for lunch another day.

Our afternoon was spent resting – Bruce took a nap which he never really does and felt quite good afterward.  Our cleaning help picked up our laundry this morning but had not brought it back.  We decided to leave for the rest of the day, to check out what was going on in town and to meet some friends for dinner.

I am still amazed at all the wondrous sites to see in this city.  Bruce and I took a walk down a street we had not walked and came upon Interesting architecture.

Our walk brought us back back to Central Park, where there was a show taking place with children dressed in typical Mayan costume.  The colors are so vibrant and although there is a lot of poverty, there is a strong family bond in the Mayan culture.

Many children watched the show some happy, some looking sleepy since they’ve spent many hours at the park today.

The women dressed in colorful Mayan clothing watched on or sold their wares.

Bruce and I stopped in at Cafe Contessa for smoothies.  I had pineapple and he had strawberry.  It’s a lovely little place with great pastries.

While we sat in the park waiting to meet our friends, we heard a lot of loud squawking in the tree above.  We didn’t have to go very far to see some parrots.

Dinner plans were with our new friends Patty and Chris.  They have been visiting Antigua for a few years and have given us great info on the place.  We hustled around the maddening crowd by the park to find this little Italian restaurant we read about.  No luck finding it.  Maybe it closed or the door was just too dark to see.  We ended up across the street in the Hotel Euro Maya.  I had a pollo quesadilla which was good.

After dinner we went back to Cafe Contessa for dessert.  Patty and Chris shared a banana coconut cake but Bruce stated adamantly that he wouldn’t share.  So I had to eat a whole piece of macadamia pie all by myself.  Life is tough.

 

Every day we take a different road and around every corner is something new and exciting to see.  We did have a mission this morning.  We need to find a bank to change dollars into Quetzals, we needed to find a travel company to book a shuttle to Lake Atitlan for tomorrow, and we needed to find something to eat.  Our adventure took us past the side of the Catedral on Central Park.  We were able to look at the ruins from the gate but we will reserve a tour for another day.

The street we walked down also had a great view of the volcano. It rose above the city in all its majesty, dwarfing the buildings and people in its shadow.  A small child in typical Guatemalan dress feverishly bounds after her mother, who walks with pride and purpose.  These women stand on there feet countless hours each day selling whatever they can so they can feed their young.

Our walk took us to the tourist board where we were given some brochures as well as pointers on what to look for when we booked our trips.  Ronnie, the agent on duty,  was very helpful and a good resource to have while we are in Antigua.  Across from the tourist board we stopped for a bite to eat and a cup of coffee.  Bruce had a hot chocolate which tasted sweet with a slight hint of cinnamon.

Next stop was the bank.  While I waited outside I met a Guatemalan man named Carlos who had lived in New York for two years.  He lived near Coney Island in Brooklyn and worked doing landscaping.  He was selling bracelets made of coconut that he made himself.  Oh I also found out my Mayan sign is the bee and Bruce is the jaguar.

We found a travel agency in a lovely building and booked our shuttle for tomorrow.  After we booked we climbed up to the roof and looked at the magnificent views.

From the roof I could see Cerro de La Cruz and Compania de Jesus.  Cerro de La Cruz is a cross on top of a hill.  We plan to hike it when we come back from Lake Atitlan.

For those who know me well, you know how I love Dunkin Donuts.  Well guess what I found?  You guessed it.

And we sat in a lovely little court yard drinking coffee.  Although I have to say, I really like Guatemalan coffee.

On our way back to our apartment we came across this work crew.  Could you imagine people in the US working like this!  No heavy equipment, all muscle.

The rest of the day was lovely.  We had coffee with friends, two of which were from New York and one had graduated from my alma mater, NYU.  Then Bruce and I had dinner at a pizza place where we met a lovely couple from Vancouver who have travelled the world.

Another fabulous day in Guatemala!!

I don’t usually wake up early but with all the walking and the hard bed, I’ve not been sleeping very well.  So this morning Bruce insisted I go to the yoga class hoping it would help him get some sleep.  I wasn’t sure what to expect and didn’t know if the class was going to be in English or Spanish.  It turned out the instructor was from New Zealand and has been living in Antigua for 12 years.  It was a great 90 minute class with a lot of stretching, holding, breathing and meditating.  Just what I needed.  I always love the last 5 to 10 minutes of meditation.  The instructor handed out herbal scented eye pillows to block out any light.  Now that’s what I call relaxation.  The yoga room is lovely and quiet with scented herbs lining the flower boxes outside the room.

After yoga, I went back to the apartment for breakfast and a shower.  Low and behold I caught this picture of Fuego with the smoke above the volcano- -almost as though it had blown a smoke ring.  I guess I will get used to this but I am finding it very fascinating.

We met some new friends, Patty and Chris, at Guate Java for coffee and then they took us to a few shops to meet some of the local shop owners.  One shop is a Fair Trade Store.  I bought this lovely bag and purse for $36 and it is made by hand and proceeds go back to the people.

Afterwards we went back to Patty and Chris’s apartment to see where they are staying.    They are closer in to town and are next to Santa Teresa, another ruin.

Bruce and I spent some time sitting in Central Park people watching.  It’s the hub of activity in Antigua and when Lent begins there will be many parades throughout the streets.  In the park, the people sell their items.  I would like to get to know someone so I could buy specifically from them, especially if they have young children to feed.

The little girl was carrying mangoes, pineapple, and papaya on her head in that big basket.  She could not have been more than 10 years old.  The fruit sells for 5 quetzals which is about 75 cents.

As we passed San Jose El Viejo, another wedding was taking place.  Today I was there to catch the bride and wedding party before they entered the church.

For dinner we ate at a local Guatemalan restaurant, Cafe Ana.  I had chicken and rice and Bruce had fajitas.  It was a nice little restaurant.

 

Its been another fabulous day in Guatemala.

I was so excited this morning when I looked out my bathroom window and saw the volcano, Fuego, emit a puff of smoke.  Fuego is one of the most active volcanoes in Central America and last erupted in 1974.

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After breakfast, Bruce and I headed out looking for the Saturday Weaver’s market.  Along the way we came across Tanque de La Union and Santa Cruz, a ruin of a cathedral.

The market was colorful with many Mayans selling their handmade items.  I am learning how to tell the machine made from the handmade.  A handmade table runner can take up to two weeks to make.

Bruce and I stopped to have a light lunch at a little cafe called Epicure.  Like so many places here, it looked like nothing in the entrance but when we went to the back, it opened up to a lovely garden.  We both had pineapple and guava crepes with a mocha ice cream.  Bruce had tea and I, of course, had coffee.

I have have to say it’s very dangerous walking around and gawking.  As I was passing by the many large, wooden doors it suddenly opened.  I quickly glanced to see what was behind the door not minding my step.  At that moment a whole opened in the pavement, I lost my footing and I went down with what I believe was with the grace of a gazelle.  Actually, I caught my fall on the pads of my hands and no harm became me.  But after that no more gawking and walking.

The weavers market was at the cathedral ruin of El Carmen.

This one street reminded me of Rainbow Row in Charleston with all the colors.

Bruce and I walked to a farm near our apartment but we arrived too late for the Saturday market.  Next week we will get there early.  Its an organic market and during the week they are open for lunch.

Saturday is very lively in Antigua.  Lots of weddings and other events.  The gates were open at the cathedral ruin, San Jose El Viejo and some caterers were setting up for a wedding.  They joked with us and locked the gate with Bruce and I inside.  We all laughed and then they let us out.

For dinner, Bruce and I cooked up some pasta and started making our plans to go to Lake Atitlan.  We are really loving Guatemala.

Some other random photos – bird bath – a man on his horse going by our apartment, late afternoon shot of Fuego, and I love the colorful flowers everywhere.